Pawnee Pecan
Small pecan tree, should mature at 20-30' x 25-35'. Excellent quality. Recommended for areas of the traditional pecan belt with shorter growing seasons. Pawnee is the only pecan known to have "significant aphid resistance." Partially self-fertile, or use Kansa or Hardy Giant or Peruque for a pollinator. Introduced from Texas, Pawnee is productive averaging 57lbs of nuts per tree. Nut size is large. Zones 7-9. Native If grafted on Giles pecan, trees are the best choice for northern pecan areas because plants will harden off sooner and be less prone to winter damage.
| Plant Characteristics | |
|---|---|
| Pest Resistance | Very Good |
| Disease Resistance | Very Good |
| Drought Tolerance | Very Good |
| Heat Tolerance | Excellent |
| Humidity Tolerance | Very Good |
| Sun Tolerance | Excellent |
| Wet Soil Tolerance | Fair |
| Shade Tolerance | Fair |
| No Spray | Very Good |
| Salt Tolerance | Fair |
| Fun for Kids | Excellent |
| Deer Resistance | Fair |
| Plant Type | Tree |
| Soil Type | Adaptable |
| Edible Type | Nut |
| Self Fertile | Yes |
| this information is accurate to the best of our knowledge, comments/opinions are always welcome | |
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Pecan Care Guide
Pecans are a species of hickory. The sweet, brown, oblong nuts are produced in the fall. They grow in zones 5b - 9. Although pecans are self-fruitful, they are not reliably so because they often shed pollen at a time when the pistils are only partly receptive. Furthermore the nuts are of inferior quality. You should, therefore, plant two varieties- one that sheds its pollen early and the other that sheds it pollen late.
Pecans are divided into three groups: Eastern varieties are particularly adapted to the humid Southeast, although they do well farther west. They have above-average resistance to scab and other diseases. Western varieties grown from central Texas westward. They are well adapted to a fairly dry climate and alkaline soil, but they are very susceptible to scab and other diseases. Northern varieties mature their nuts in an unusually short time. They are tolerant of disease.
Pecans are very deep rooted, so they require a very deep soil. This should be a good loam, well drained and containing humus. Sandy and clay soils are much less desirable, although they can be improved to make the trees reasonably at home.
Undoubtedly the most important thing you can do is to water them frequently so that moisture reaches down to the bottom of the tap root. Mulching with a thick layer of hay or other organic material is recommended.
In subsequent years, water as necessary to maintain an even supply of moisture around the roots from the time the trees start making growth in the spring until the nuts are harvested in the fall. A lack of moisture at any time during this period will adversely affect the growth and output of the trees not only in the current year but also in the year following.
Fertilize newly planted trees when they put out growth with 1/2 cup of 10-10-10. Apply an additional 1/2 cup six to eight weeks later but not after July 30 in northern areas. Thereafter the trees can usually be fertilized with ammonium sulfate (or other nitrogen fertilizer). Apply this in early spring at the rate of about 1.5 cups per year of tree age. If trees are growing in an orchard where the ground is cultivated or mulched, the fertilizer should be broadcast over the entire root area. If trees are growing in a lawn or ornamental garden area, however, the heavy applications of fertilizer required for the mature trees would probably kill the grass and other small plants if it were broadcast. So you should place it in holes made with a crowbar at 2’ intervals throughout the root zone.
Nuts are ready for harvesting when the husks loose their bright green color and open at the tips. The easiest system of harvesting is to leave the nuts on the tree until they cure and fall naturally. The alternative is to knock them from the tree with light bamboo poles. They should be allowed to dry thoroughly before they are placed in sacks.
If you buy a property with an old pecan tree that does not produce well, you can probably persuade it to mend its ways by pruning out the dead, damaged, and unnecessary limbs; clearing the ground underneath and applying a heavy dose of fertilizer; and watering well. If Spanish moss infests the tree, it should be removed by spraying with copper sulfate. Don’t expect an immediate hugh crop of nuts, however: you will probably have to continue this treatment for a couple of years.
