Cornus Kousa Chinese Dogwood
This species from China and Japan is much like our native dogwood, but the floral bracts are pointed and produce several weeks later in the season. Tree develops interesting bark as it grows and the showy fruits are edible. Leaves have good fall color. Kousa has few pest problems. It is highly resistant to dogwood borer and dogwood anthracnose that has been plaguing flowering dogwoods in recent years. Zones 6-8.
| Plant Characteristics | |
|---|---|
| Pest Resistance | Excellent |
| Disease Resistance | Excellent |
| Drought Tolerance | Very Good |
| Heat Tolerance | Good |
| Humidity Tolerance | Excellent |
| Sun Tolerance | Very Good |
| Wet Soil Tolerance | Poor |
| Shade Tolerance | Fair |
| No Spray | Excellent |
| Salt Tolerance | Poor |
| Fun for Kids | Fair |
| Deer Resistance | Fair |
| Thorns | No |
| Plant Type | Tree |
| Soil Type | Adaptable |
| Edible Type | Fruit |
| Self Fertile | Yes |
| this information is accurate to the best of our knowledge, comments/opinions are always welcome | |
Dogwood Care Guide
The cornelian cherry can be trained as a tree, gaining a height of over 26' and a width exceeding 20'. Growing quickly for the first 25 years, it adds a foot or more I height every season. One of the first trees to bloom in northern climates, it covers itself with small gold-yellow flowers on older wood that hang on for two months starting in late January or early February. The bark is particularly attractive, presenting a highly textured gray through velvety, sable-brown appearance throughout the year; striking, especially in winter. Its verdant spring and summer aspect becomes quite colorful with the appearance of fairly large oblong, cherry-like fruit that ripen to a scarlet, then to a deeper, purple-red shade in late August through September. The fruit varies in size and shape among different varieties, from 3/4" to over 1.5" length. In October, the leaves begin their color change to scarlets and purples, sometimes hanging on the branches
till mid-December. It is an extremely hardy tree originating in middle, southern and eastern Europe, ranging from the Balkan mountains to Russia, as well as Asia Minor, Armenia and the Caucases. In the wild, its distribution is quite unequal, being tied to the nature of the soil,
favoring above all dry, alkaline soils. In the United States it is found primarily in the east having been brought from Europe in the last century or perhaps even earlier.
The reading of some property titles where it was used as a boundary, indicates a great longevity of more than 1,000 years. If cut or burned, it seems to always regenerate from the roots. Today, in eastern Europe (the Balkans, Soviet Union, and Poland) is still cultivated for its fruit. In western Europe I have seen it in many different places, along railways and in evidence at great estates and palaces where it was occasionally also used to form a "tunnel". In both east and west it is frequently encountered as a "living fence" or windbreak.
The best way to harvest is to gently shake the branches when the fruit has colored at the end of August. All fruit that fall should be washed in cold water, dried and preserved or frozen that day or eaten fresh, slightly chilled 12 to 24 hours later. The shaking of branches should be repeated about twice a week until all the fruit has been gathered by early October. If allowed to overipen on the tree, the flavor becomes concentrated, sweet and aromatic.
The pruning and training of Cornus mas is much the same as that for other spring-flowering trees and shrubs. Just after the flowers begin to fade and drop, immediately prior to leafing out, is the best to carry out this procedure. Light summer pruning is also helpful. Planting also follows standard practice - a big, well dug planting hole to start with followed by a 4' watering basin, covered with 2" of mulch. An 8" ring of rocks surrounding the crown (which should be slightly above grade) assists in keeping the mulch well away from the trunk of the tree. The trunk benefits from being painted with white reflective paint (water base Latex) or better yet, covered with the flexible, plastic tree wrap.
Spacing between trees not grown as a hedge can be as close as 18' to 20'. If a small orchard is contemplated, 20' in and 28' between rows seems adequate.
