Persimmon Care Guide

Persimmons are beautiful and resilient fruit trees that can thrive in a variety of climates, but their care requires attention to detail, especially regarding temperature, soil, pests, and pruning. There are two main types of persimmons: American persimmons (Diospyros virginiana) and Asian persimmons (Diospyros kaki), and each has specific needs and characteristics. Below is a comprehensive guide to help you grow healthy, productive persimmons.

1. Temperature and Hardiness

Cold Hardiness

• American Persimmons: American Persimmons have a wide native range, making them hardier in colder climates, withstanding temperatures as low as -20°F in northern climates, and also thriving deep into the southern states. 
• Asian Persimmons: These are more sensitive to extreme cold. However, they can survive short durations of temperatures down to -16°F, with many varieties surviving lows of -9°F. Grafting Asian persimmons onto American persimmon rootstock helps increase hardiness, particularly for colder climates.

Microclimate for Protection

• Southern Exposure: In colder climates (Zone 6)  Asian persimmons can be planted on the south side of a house or wall which creates a warm microclimate and provides a natural windbreak, encouraging earlier fruit ripening and better overall growth. 

2. Planting and Soil

Soil Requirements

• Persimmons are not particularly fussy about soil types but prefer well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral soils. They thrive in soils that are rich in organic matter but do not like waterlogged conditions. They’ve also been shown to thrive on the coast of the eastern and southern US. 
• Mulching is recommended to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and protect the roots.

Spacing

• Dwarf Varieties: These smaller persimmons (e.g., Sheng, Smith’s Best, Ichi Ki Kei’ Jiro) can be spaced 10-12 feet apart.
• Standard Varieties: Larger varieties (e.g., Gwang Yang, Hana Fuyu) should be spaced 15 feet apart.
• Distance from Structures: Plant persimmons at least 12 feet away from structures (like homes) to avoid interference with growth and provide enough space for the tree to thrive.

3. Watering and Fertilization

Watering

• First Season: Water your persimmon tree thoroughly during the first growing season to encourage strong root development. However, ensure that the soil is well-drained, as persimmons are prone to root rot in soggy conditions.
• Ongoing Care: Once established, persimmons are relatively drought-tolerant but will perform better with consistent watering, especially during dry spells.

Fertilization

• Fertilizer: A balanced 5-10-10 fertilizer is often sufficient to provide necessary nutrients. Potassium is especially important for fruit retention and to prevent fruit drop.
• Nutrient Deficiency: Ensure the tree has enough potassium in the soil. Lack of potassium can result in fruit drop.

4. Pests and Insects

Common Pests

• Psyllids: These small insects (about 1/8" in length) feed on the newly emerging leaves, causing minor damage. They are usually not a significant problem, but they can be controlled with a soap spray if necessary.
• Dogwood Borers: This clear-winged moth can lay eggs on persimmon trunks, particularly near the ground. The larvae burrow into the bark, causing damage. If you spot the sawdust-like frass near the trunk, it's likely from borer larvae.
• Prevention: Apply an insecticide in late June, or wrap the tree base with a tobacco collar to deter borers.
• Stink Bugs: These pests can damage hard-ripe persimmons by causing hard, gritty spots in the flesh. Soft-ripe varieties are less affected due to the fruit's tannins.
• Control: Monitor for stink bugs, especially near harvest, and remove or treat with insecticides if needed. Our choice at the nursery is Surround, which we use commonly in the orchard to control plum curculio on peaches and plums, but it has been helpful in controlling stink bugs as well. 

5. Pruning and Tree Care

Pruning

• Persimmons generally do not require heavy pruning, but light shaping helps maintain structure and encourages better fruiting. Downward pointing and crisscrossing branches should be pruned to encourage good light penetration. 
• Prune dead or damaged wood annually to keep the tree healthy. Avoid cutting into the central leader (main trunk) as this can disrupt the tree’s shape.
• Summer Pruning: You can remove any upward-growing shoots to maintain an open canopy and encourage lateral growth.

Protection from Sunscald

• Sunscald can be a problem, especially in cold climates, where the tree’s bark may become damaged by sudden temperature changes. This is especially true on the south side of the trunk, where morning sun hitting the bark after a cold night can cause damage. This can provide entry points for Botryosphaeria canker, a fungal infection.
• Winter Protection: latex outdoor white paint on the south facing side of the trunk can help repel the intensity of the light. 

6. Diseases

Botryosphaeria Canker

• Botryosphaeria is a fungal disease that can affect persimmons, especially during stressful conditions such as drought, improper pruning, and winter sunscald.
• Symptoms: Look for dead limbs and dark, sunken areas on the bark.
• Prevention: To avoid this disease, ensure proper pruning, prevent winter sunscald, and avoid damaging the bark with lawnmowers or weed trimmers.

7. Ripening Times

American Persimmons

• September: Yates, Weber, Meader
• October: Yates, Weber, Meader, Rosseyanka, Ruby
• November: Ruby, Rosseyanka, Meader

Asian Persimmons

• September: Izu, Miss Kim, Sheng, Wase Fuyu
• October: Gwang Yang, Hana Fuyu, TamKam, Ichi Ki Kei Jiro, Maekawa Jiro, Smith's Best, Sung Hui
• November: Great Wall, Hychia, Hira Tanenashi, Kungsun Bansi, Saijo, San Pedro, TamKam
• December: Hana Gosho, Tecumseh

8. Harvesting and Storing Fruit

• Astringent Persimmons (ripe when soft): These varieties must ripen fully on the tree to become edible. They are hard and bitter when unripe, but once completely softened, they turn sweet and delicious. Freeze them for a few days to speed up the softening process or allow them to ripen on the tree.
• Non-Astringent Persimmons (ripe while still firm): These can be eaten when firm, much like an apple, and are sweet and crisp when they develop into a brilliant orange color. They can also be left to soften and eaten then. 
• Harvesting Tip: Gently twist the fruit from the stem to avoid damaging the tree. Pruners or strong scissors may work best.  If you're harvesting astringent varieties, wait until they are fully soft to the touch.

Conclusion

Persimmons are low-maintenance trees that reward gardeners with beautiful foliage, attractive fruit, and a long harvest season. Whether you choose American persimmons for cold-hardiness or Asian persimmons for their unique flavor and ornamental value, these trees can thrive with proper care, pest management, and protection from extreme temperatures. By following these guidelines for planting, pruning, pest control, and harvesting, you’ll be able to enjoy a bountiful persimmon harvest for many years to come.